Back to School: Cooking Class
May 28, 2007 at 12:58 pm | Posted in around sydney, breakfast things, cakes & tortes, classes, sweet things | Leave a commentOn Saturday I took at baking class at Accoutrement’s cooking school in Mosman. It was lead by Rachel Grisewood from Manna from Heaven. She started out by having us make an intensely flavored raspberry passionfruit cake.
Then we made briche dough, and she demonstrated how we could turn it into loaves and pizza bases. We each got to take home a piece of dough…I turned mine into a couple of big glazed cinnamon buns with walnuts for Sunday breakfast.
WCC#16: Rhubarb Brûlée Tartlettes with Ginger
May 9, 2007 at 3:26 pm | Posted in events, pies & tarts, sweet things | 6 CommentsTowards the end of winter I begin to get very antsy. This is not so much for the arrival of warm weather as it is for the arrival of rhubarb at the Borough Hall Greenmarket in Brooklyn. But wait– I’m not in New York anymore, I’m in Sydney. And it’s not spring here, it’s fall. So imagine my excitement when I saw rhubarb at the Good Living Growers’ Market in Pyrmont this past Saturday! Yes, of course I bought some. I wish my camera could have captured how beautiful the raw, iridescent red stalks were, but I make do with a point and shoot, so it didn’t.
I’ve baked so many rhubarb pies, I *maybe* could make one with my eyes closed…although the lattice work would be tough. If I’m too lazy to make a pie, then the rhubarb always gets folded into a really easy cake batter. I felt like making something different. And I was looking for something to do with my Sunday afternoon while R was glued to the tube watching slasher movies. As I was poking through my cookbook collection, I found a recipe in Regan Daley’s 2001 book In the Sweet Kitchen, which I recently purchased, for rhubarb brûlée tartlettes with ginger. Hmm…that sounded good (as does every other recipe in Chef Daley’s book). Not only would I get to use a new cookbook, it would also give me the chance to use a new gadget, my little kitchen blow torch.
The recipe is broken up into four parts: preparing the tartlette shells, making the brûlée base, cooking the fruit and assembling the final product. In and of themselves, these steps are quite simple, and the first three can be done a day ahead if need be. The finished tarts though should be eaten on the day of final assembly and baking. In detailing the recipe, I’m going to skip the method for the tart shells. I didn’t actually make Chef Daley’s pâte brisée recipe, as I had some pie dough in the freezer from something else and thought this was a good way to use it up. Just use your favorite brisée recipe for the tartlette shells and blind bake them.
For the sake of presentation, I did two things differently than in the original recipe. The liquid from the cooked rhubarb was a beautiful pink, so I didn’t discard it. I added a bit more sugar and reduced it to make a syrup. I also cut the rhubarb a bit longer than instructed. When putting the compote into the tarts, I put the pieces that had fallen apart the most during cooking on the the bottoms, filled the shells with custard, then lined up a few pieces that had retained their shape on top.
The finished dessert was delicious. The tart rhubarb went nicely with the creamy, vanilla-scented custard and it had just a bit of a kick from the ginger. The shell stayed crisp, and of course there was the brûléed top. I may as well also mention that while my little torch is certainly no match for the hardware store type I’ve used in restaurants, it’s not bad.
The theme for the sixteenth Weekend Cookbook Challenge, hosted by Sara (the founder of WCC) at I Like to Cook, is “Something New.” Since I’ve used two new things to make this recipe, I thought I’d submit it as an entry.
Rhubarb Brûlée Tartlettes with Ginger – makes 6 servings
adapted from Regan Daley’s In the Sweet Kitchen
6 (4 1/2 -inch) pâte brisée tartlette shells, pre-baked, cooled and left in their forms
1 1/2 T redcurrant or plum jelly
2 scant T finely chopped crystallized ginger
1/2 cup turbinado sugar for brûléefor the rhubarb:
3/4 pound rhubarb stalks, washed, trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths
1/4 cup plus 1 T packed light brown sugarfor the custard:
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup plus 1 T granulated sugar
1 T unsalted butter, cut into bits
pinch of salt
– For the rhubarb: Place the cut rhubarb and light brown sugar into a pot over low heat. Cover and cook (gently stirring a few times) for 5 to 10 minutes until the rhubarb is tender, but still holds shape. Drain and cool the rhubarb to room temperature before using, or refrigerate if making ahead. Either discard the juice from the drained rhubarb, or reduce it to syrup consistency if desired for plating.
– For the custard: Set up a water bath by bringing about two inches of water to a simmer in a large pot and setting a heatproof bowl on top. Pour cream into a separate small saucepan and add the pinch of salt and the seeds and pod from the vanilla bean. Pot the pot on medium heat to scald the cream. Put the yolks and sugar in the bowl set over the gently simmering water bath. While cream is heating, constantly whisk the yolk mixture over the water bath. When cream is scalded and the yolk mixture is thick and pale, temper the cream into the yolks. Leave the mixture over the water bath, stirring constantly with a spoon until it thickly coats the back. This will take 5 to 7 minutes. Strain the custard through a fine sieve and stir in the butter until melted and incorporated. Press plastic onto the surface to avoid a skin and refrigerate until cool.
– Assembling the tartlettes: Preheat the oven to 325°F/170°C. Place the tartlette shells on a flat baking sheet. Gently melt the jelly and brush the bottoms of the shells with a thin layer. Spoon a couple of tablespoons of cooked rhubarb into the shells and smooth out. Divide the chopped ginger among the shells and spoon custard on top. If desired, place a few nicely shaped pieces of rhubarb across the top. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. The filling should be a little jiggly in the center, but slightly set around the edges. Cool the tarts on a rack (the custard will further set). Place in the refrigerator if not eating within two hours (although you should not prepare them more than five hours in advance, according to Daley).
– To serve: Remove the tartlettes from their shells and sprinkle on the turbinado sugar. Using a kitchen torch, melt and caramelize the sugar. If you have placed some rhubarb on top of the tarts like I did, sprinkle sugar and brûlée AROUND the exposed pieces. They will burn if you torch them. Serve immediately with the rhubarb syrup, if using.
Food Fight #2: Crêpes for Mum
May 4, 2007 at 10:28 pm | Posted in events, savory things | 2 CommentsMy mother is a Dutch girl, born and raised in Grand Rapids, Michigan. In her heart though, I think she is Parisian. She spent time in studying in Paris during university and returned after graduation for a few more years. She still speaks French fluently, attends Francophile events in Seattle and keeps up with the country’s politics and trends.
My mother is a very good home cook. Although she may sometimes regard cooking as a bit of a chore, you’d never know by her food. French, of course, and easy to make, crêpes are a favorite of hers, not to mention mine. Both sweet andsavory, crêpes are certainly delicious. Thus, I am submitting a crêpe dish as my entry for the second installment of Food Fight (Your Mother’s Favorite Dish), hosted by Allen at Eating Out Loud.
Here, I’ve made them for dinner. I used a filling of smoked turkey, Swiss cheese and roasted asparagus. I already had these ingredients in the fridge just waiting to be used up, but really you could use almost any tasty filling combination. A nice melting cheese is always a good inclusion.
Knowing that a whole batch of crêpes would be too much for just two of us to eat in one sitting, I made a very basic recipe that can accommodate either sweet or savory fillings (i.e., no sugar and not too much salt). That way I could save the extras, wrapped and refrigerated of course, and turn them into dessert or breakfast crêpes (a little apricot jam in the center– oh my gosh!) within a couple of days. The recipe I used is attributed to Gourmet Magazine, but can be found here on Food Network’s website.
The batter comes together in a snap– let your blender or food processor do all the work. It needs a little time to rest before it’s used, and it can even be made the day before. It is true that the first crêpes out of the pan is often not too pretty, but hey, that’s the “cook’s treat,” right? Now that I think about it, a little triangular stuffed crêpe is almost like a wrapped present. Happy Mother’s Day, or Fête des Mères!
Easter in the Blue Mountains
April 24, 2007 at 2:33 pm | Posted in out of town | Leave a commentIt seems long ago now, but R and I did drive out to the Blue Mountains for some crisp air and wide open spaces over the Easter long weekend. A lot of other Sydneysiders apparently had this idea, too, and parts of the drive up there moved at about the same pace as traffic through a certain part of Long Island on a Friday in July.
Once there however, the scenery was spectacular…
And the food was not bad either. We had lovely, long dinners at Darley’s Restaurant at the Lilianfels Hotel in Katoomba and Solitary in Leura Falls. But my favorite meal was lunch at Vulcan’s in Blackheath. The restaurant specializes in slow cooked food, and with its red walls and and open kitchen with a wood-burning oven, the whole place just feels warm. After sharing a roasted pumpkin salad, R had pot roast, which he said melted in his mouth. I had a vegetarian “lasagna”, with layers of goat cheese, spinach, lentils and polenta in a fresh tomato sauce. I will certainly be trying this one out at home as the weather in Sydney gets cooler.
I also took home some edible souvenirs, all of which are gone now. A box of Granny Smith apples from Logan-Brae Orchard in Shipley made two crisps and a pie, with a few left over for eating straight-up. Cafe Josophan’s in Blackheath (also in Leura) makes the best chocolates I’ve had here so far. My favorite was the earthy, fresh mint.
And Hominy Bakery in Katoomba has wonderful pastries and breads. Since I was missing the Good Living Growers’ Market in Pyrmont that weekend (where I usually stock up on breads), I brought back three loaves.
WCC#15: Lemon Yogurt Cake
April 10, 2007 at 2:09 pm | Posted in cakes & tortes, events, simple cakes, sweet things | 7 CommentsWe’re in the middle of autumn here in the Southern Hemisphere, but a fall day in Sydney feels a lot like a typical spring day in New York to me. The weather is cool and comfortable, and it’s perfect for baking. I’m hoping to just sneak in under deadline for the Weekend Cookbook Challenge (Easter/springtime food is the theme), hosted this month by Marta from An Italian in the US, with the dessert I whipped up for Easter.
Ina Garten’s Barefoot Contessa at Home is a book that I bought shortly before moving to Sydney. And in the chaos that accompanies a move, I didn’t have any time to make anything from it. Flipping through it recently, I saw a recipe for lemon yogurt loaf cake– no mixer required! Lemon, to me, is a flavor that matches the snappy, sunny weather outside.
What I like best about this cake is that not only is it glazed (and who doesn’t love glaze?!), but it’s also soaked with a lemon simple syrup. The syrup and the yogurt/vegetable oil combo keep it moist for a couple of days, which is good when you’re cooking for two. It’s perfect before bed with a cup of chamomile tea.
I see that this recipe is also on Food Network’s website. Rather than me retyping it, you can print a copy here if you don’t have the book.
Food Fight #1: Poached Egg with Spinach and Buckwheat Polenta
April 2, 2007 at 6:48 pm | Posted in events, savory things | 1 CommentWhen I saw that Eating Out Loud is hosting a new monthly event called “Food Fight,” with the first theme paying homage to the egg, I thought it the perfect opportunity to try to recreate that poached egg dish I had at Auge about a month ago. I’m usually kind of creeped out by runny eggs (I even like my fried eggs well done), but this was really good! It was served as a starter at the restaurant, but was plenty enough for a dinner at home. How I managed to eat three more courses afterward that night is somewhat frightening.
I thought that maybe a couple of the ingredients would be hard to find, but that really wasn’t the case. One trip to the farmers’ market for eggs and spinach, and another to the health food store for buckwheat polenta, and I had what I needed for the main components of the dish. The garnishes on Auge’s version were truffle parmesan and chestnut butter. I found truffle pecorino at a small cheese shop in the neighborhood, and thought that a fine substitute. As for the chestnut butter, I have no idea what that is, and used browned butter instead.
Not generally being a fan of oozy eggs, I must admit that I’d never poached one myself before. On the first couple of tries, the whites where all over the place like little slips of wet tissue…not nearly the perfectly round little package I wanted for a public showing. I never did get it just right (maybe next time), but I didn’t want to go through a whole dozen on one dinner. My end result was perhaps slightly overdone, but delicious nevertheless. Anyway, I expect there are many seasoned egg poachers out there who can handle this with ease.
The hardest part about this dish was getting everything together at once, since polenta turns into a stiff gunky mess if it sits around. My solution was to have the spinach washed and waiting for me and the water for the egg heating when I started the polenta. Then when I thought the polenta was almost finished, I just ignored it for a couple minutes on low heat (I know you are supposed to stir it constantly, but it came out just fine) while I slipped the eggs into simmering water and wilted the spinach. Then I loosened up the polenta with a splash more water, finished it off with a knob of butter and some parmesan, and it was ready to go.
By the way, a better and less nerve racking solution to the issue of timing is to recruit help. My help was already busy watching The Biggest Loser, but gladly abandoned the TV for the table when dinner was ready.
Poached Egg with Spinach and Buckwheat Polenta – makes 2 servings
– For the buckwheat polenta: Heat a few tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan. Once melted, add in half of a medium yellow onion (diced) and saute until translucent. Then pour in 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Slowly whisk 1 cup of buckwheat polenta into the boiling water. Reduce the heat to low and stir fairly constantly for about 30-35 minutes. Add a little extra water if it starts to become too thick. When done, take the pan off the heat and stir in about 1/4 cup grated parmesan, 1 tablespoon extra butter and salt to taste. (This actually made more polenta than I needed, so I put the extra into a rectangular plastic container and refrigerated. It will be firm enough to cut into squares, lightly fry in olive oil, and pair with a sauce for another dinner.)
– For the spinach: Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat, and then add in a clove of whole smashed garlic (just for flavor–remove it at the end). Add in washed spinach (preferably still a little wet), and wilt down. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover to keep warm until service.
– For the eggs: Crack each egg into a separate small cup, being careful not to break the yolks. Let the eggs sit at room temperature while heating 2-3 inches of water to a bare simmer in a large shallow pan. When just starting to simmer, add in a splash of white vinegar. Carefully slip in eggs, one at a time. Simmer for about three minutes and remove with a slotted spoon.
– To serve: Spoon polenta in center of plate. Top with sauteed spinach and poached egg. Drizzle browned butter around polenta and top with black pepper and shavings of truffle pecorino.
Weekend on the Gold Coast
March 28, 2007 at 2:02 pm | Posted in out of town | Leave a commentJust got back from four days of sun on the Gold Coast (actually three days of sun and one of rain). The ocean waves were kind of scary, but the hotel pool was nice and calm. Even the weird “dinosaur bird” enjoyed things poolside.
Of course no trip with me is complete without checking out the local food scene. We had a couple of great dinners, and I can recommend:
*Vanitas at the Palazzo Versace Hotel
*Absynthe (also try nearby Absynthe Bakery for breakfast or pastries…you can pick up a loaf of deliciously unusual curry, honey and hazelnut bread)
We also went to Sea World and Warner Bros. Movie World.
I heart dolphins and rollercoasters!
Tiramisu
March 21, 2007 at 6:49 pm | Posted in cakes & tortes, sweet things | 2 CommentsI suffer from occasional bouts of insomnia. Sometimes it’s because I have a lot on my mind, and sometimes it’s because R is snoring (sorry dude!), but I couldn’t help wondering whether last night’s restlessness was caused by the tiramisu I had for dessert. I hope not, because I’m having it again tonight… but it does mean “pick me up,” right?
My Asian bakery tiramsu face-off earlier this month, along with a pot of mascarpone I’d bought on a recent trip to Haberfield’s Ramsay Street, got me craving my favorite tiramisu–mine!
I must admit, since no baking is involved I usually kind of wing the measurements. This time, though, I did things with a little more precision and jotted down notes. Since it’s just the two of us, I normally assemble this in a loaf pan. This gives us dessert for a couple of nights, and then it’s on to something else. Just double the recipe if you want to make a larger size. Also, I like mine with lots of boozy sponge so I use three layers of ladyfinger biscuits, but if you like it more on the creamy side, use 2/3 the number of biscuits for two layers and keep the measurements for the mascarpone mixture the same. One last thing…it tastes so much better if it’s refrigerated overnight!
Tiramisu – makes 6 servings (or one loaf pan)
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar, plus 2 t
1/4 cup marsala wine, plus 1 T
250 g (8 oz) mascarpone, room temp
3/4 cup whipping cream
1 cup strong coffee, warm
2 T rum
splash of vanilla extract
24 savoiardi (dry ladyfingers, found in Italian and specialty shops)
dark chocolate for grating
– In a bowl set over a waterbath, make a zabaglione with the egg yolks, 1/4 c sugar and 1/4 c marsala. Once it has doubled in volume, set it aside to let it cool off slightly while you whip the cream to soft peaks in a chilled bowl. Fold the whipped cream and mascarpone together, then fold in the zabaglione.
– Combine the warm coffee, rum, 1 T marsala, vanilla and 2 t sugar in a shallow bowl. Quickly dip one ladyfinger at a time into the mixture and arrange in a single layer on the bottom of a loaf pan. Top with 1/3 of the mascarpone mixture and grate a little chocolate on top. Repeat two more times, putting a good amount of grated chocolate on the top layer.
– Cover lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight (or at least for a few hours).
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